Drawings of weaving on a reed. Tips for beginners on threading and working on a reed loom
No titleMaster class on weaving on a reed
Dara Shi
A modern city dweller is unlikely to find a real loom, and if there is, then few people have the opportunity to allocate a separate room for it. But all this does not mean at all that weaving is outdated and no longer available to needlewomen. Not at all. Not everyone knows that the grandfather of the loom is a reed, the weaving on which has not yet been forgotten and is available to us today.
Birdo allows you to create wonderful belts, both in traditional and modern style, fantasizing with colors and patterns. Art that is in demand never becomes obsolete, and a hand-woven belt for a skirt or dress will always set you apart from the crowd, and even serve as a talisman.
So, to weave a belt, we need:
Byrd. It is a wooden plate in which several dozen longitudinal slots have been made. In each "column" separating two slots, there is a hole 1-2 mm wide. The reed can be of different widths depending on the number of threads that can be threaded into it. If you want a belt with a pattern, then get a reed with a number of threads from 71, and preferably more than a hundred. You can always fill less on a narrow belt, but if you want to weave a pattern, but the reed does not fit it, it will be annoying and you will have to adjust the pattern, which is not always convenient.
Duck knife. Of course, it can also be a simple ruler, but keep in mind that such a knife will quickly crack and break. In addition, it is inconvenient to type a pattern with a ruler. Do not skimp on a knife, let it be made of durable wood and pointed at one end, even better if there is a handle. By the way, it will be much more convenient for you if the knife is comparable in length to the reed.
Shuttle. It is needed to pull the weft thread. In principle, it can be made from solid cardboard and replaced from time to time. The main thing is that it is convenient for you to stretch it through the pharynx. My shuttle is made from an unnecessary cardboard box, but if possible, make or buy a wooden one, it will last longer.
Yarn. It is better for a beginner to take woolen threads of medium thickness, it is better without impurities from which the thread quickly frays and rolls into balls; or generally cotton; a wool mixture with acrylic will also be good.
Belt. Yes, you also need a belt to which you will tie the threads tucked into the reed when you weave. It can be any, the main thing is that it does not stretch and untie with a fairly strong tension. It is best to tie it under the chest, and not at the waist, then the load on the back will be less.
Pins. They are needed to fasten the already woven part to your belt when it becomes difficult for you to reach the working area.
Well, that's all you need to get started.
Weaving on a reed is of two main types - abusive(patterned) and filling station. The filling technique is simple, the result depends only on the flowers that you take, and we are not looking for easy ways, so we will immediately weave a belt with patterns.
I want to weave a belt with this pattern:
Please note that all the cells of the scheme indicate the threads that form the pattern. That is, in order to understand how many threads we need to thread into the reed, we count all the cells. In this belt we have 7 threads of the pattern. Each pattern thread corresponds to two background threads. To make it clearer: we start filling the reed from its middle, insert the pattern thread, to the left and right of it we thread two background threads (respectively, one into the slot and the second into the hole on each side), insert the next pattern thread on both sides, two background threads behind them, etc. Sometimes a refueling scheme is attached to such schemes, but this is very rare. You can see the threading scheme for the belt that I will weave in the figure below:
With this number of threads, we get a rather narrow belt. I will weave a belt of green and white yarn. The drawing itself will be green and the background white, so for my belt I need to take 7 green threads and 22 white ones.
Now you need to decide on the length of the belt. Most of the length of the threads will go to the freedom of movement of the reed, to the knots and to the reduction in length due to the passage of the weft. The length of the threads is calculated using this formula: the required length of the product + 20% + 60 cm (That is, if we want the braid to be 1m, then we need to take 1m + 20 cm + 60 cm = 1 m 80 cm of threads). It's minimum.
We cut off the required number of threads of each color of the length that we need, and we also make a margin. That is, 2 meters is best if the belt is 1 meter. We also add to the cut error, it is unlikely that you will cut the threads evenly, and then you will have to level them at shorter lengths.
Now we fill the threads in the reed as I said a little higher, starting from the middle. It turns out like this:
Now we wind the weft thread on the shuttle. We do not regret. But in general, if you suddenly don’t have enough of it, then it’s okay, you can always add it, although it’s better to take it with a margin. Weft, with proper weaving, is not visible on the belt itself, but is visible from its edges, so you need to take it all the same in the background color. I will have white.
When tucked in, you need to align the ends so that the threads are the same length, since we probably didn’t cut the threads evenly, we tie them into a knot on one side of the reed so that the threads do not hang out and fly out of the reed. We comb the threads, drawing a reed several times from the beginning to the end and back. To make this easier, immediately tie a knot with threads to something strong enough (a cast-iron battery, a strong balcony door handle, etc. will do) or ask someone to help you.
When everyone has combed, and there are no tangled threads left, we tie the second end of the threads into a knot, and tie it to our belt, which is under the chest. I tie both knots with laces, they hold perfectly. We bring the reed to us so that it is convenient for you to work, while you should sit so that the threads are stretched like strings. Pull them as if your life depends on it :) otherwise your belt will be bumpy, and the pattern will lead.
To start, you need to open the pharynx. To do this, raise or lower the reed, as you like. In this case, the part of the threads that is in the slots will remain in place, and the one in the holes will rise or fall, and the pharynx will open. With a knife, you correct those threads that you have not lowered / risen (for example, they are hooked, tangled or something else). At the first stage, the threads can still be very pubescent and the pharynx will need to be opened with a knife, since the threads at the base of the belt will be tangled.
There are two positions of the reed - Earth and Sky. In the figure below, under the letter a, the position of the Sky is indicated when you raise the reed; b - the position of the Earth, when the reed is lowered.
When the pharynx is opened, we lay the weft thread as close as possible to the beginning of the belt:
Once you have laid the ducks, change the position of the reed. If you originally had the earth, now we hold the sky in position. With a knife we nail the ducks closer to the beginning, helping the next pharynx to open, we get the following:
We repeat: we stretch the ducks again, nail with a knife, change the position of the reed, open a new pharynx and nail again. And now we take the weft thread and pull it gently by the tip, while the warp threads are pulled together and we get the first row of the belt. Depending on how tight you tighten, the width of the belt will vary. Traditional belts were pulled so tight that they could be cut with a knife and did not unravel. You do as you see fit for your work. Accordingly, the belt will be either dense or slightly looser.
Having weaved the first row, we repeat all the manipulations with the reed and duck. At the same time, be careful, watch the width of each row when tightening. Width is perhaps the main mistake of beginners, try to keep it the same throughout the entire belt, if necessary, take a ruler and compare.
We don't need to start with the patterns right away, we need to weave a few rows first in order to get the end of the belt. Usually 5-7 centimeters are enough from the beginning to the end. We get an interesting chess pattern, like this:
When we decided that we had already woven enough, we proceed to the pattern. Look carefully at the diagram. For convenience, number the rows from the beginning to the end of the segment that will be repeated. Now, to open the pharynx, we will not just change the position of the reed, but work with colored patterned threads. In the diagram, the white squares are those patterned threads that should go down the throat, be under the knife, and the black ones are those that will remain at the top, regardless of whether they are in the slots or not and what position they occupy when we simply changed the position of the reed , as they did before. We take a knife and dial a number according to the scheme. The background threads remain where they should be, we do not touch them at all, we only change the position of the pattern threads. We reached the first thread with a knife, according to the scheme, it should be at the bottom, if it is at the top, then we lower it under the knife, and so the first two green threads. The next three will be at the top, the next two will be at the bottom. When we have scored, we open the pharynx and stretch the ducks, change the position of the reed and collect the next row according to the scheme.
The figure shows how the patterned thread went up, which should be at the top according to the scheme, but turned out to be at the bottom with an open pharynx:
The already typed first row of the pattern on the knife looks like this (now I will open the pharynx with the typed threads according to the scheme):
You can see that I have only three patterned threads left on top, as shown in the diagram.
When you open the pharynx with a knife, you need to repeat all the same, already familiar, actions: lay ducks, nail with a knife, change the position of the reed, nail again, check the width of the row, tighten or relax if necessary.
Dial a row according to the scheme with a knife. Lower what you need, raise what you need. Do not forget that the white threads must remain in place, we do not touch them! Done - opened the pharynx - laid the ducks - nailed - changed position - nailed again - checked the width - proceeded to the next row according to the scheme.
When you weave the first two patterned rows, it will turn out like this:
So, step by step, you will have a pattern:
As you can see for yourself, there is nothing complicated in swearing weaving, the main thing is attentiveness, accuracy and the desire to create, of course!
For your first job, don't be afraid to take even that belt that seems difficult if you really like it. Believe me, a complex drawing that sets your soul on fire will turn out much better than a simple one that does not cause any response, so my main advice to you is no “training” work! Even if the first belt is alive and you really like it.
When I started weaving, I did not come across the necessary materials for a beginner on this topic. Now I have research papers and piles of re-read articles, books and scientific works on the theme of artistic textiles and hand weaving, on a reed and a frame. Therefore, I will share with you the concentrated knowledge and advice that I myself once lacked.
The term reed
© Nymphodisiac (V. A. Ivanets), 2016
Berdo, berdyshko, berdechko: a device for hand weaving.
Shed: gap formed during the weaving process between warp threads tucked into different healds.
Warp: A longitudinal (vertical) system of parallel threads running along both edges of the fabric. The warp threads can also be called the equity threads.
Shaft: the working body of a loom that moves (raises and lowers) the warp threads during shedding.
Braid: A narrow woven or braided strip that has a variety of uses in household items, sewing dresses, etc.
Weaving: creating a stable textile structure by interweaving warp and weft.
Weft: a transverse (or horizontal in vertical weaving) system of parallel threads at right angles to the warp system, and passing from one edge of the fabric to the other.
First we prepare the threads. The length of the threads should be equal to the length of the belt and 0.5 m from each end on the brush. The number of threads is calculated as follows: for each thread of the pattern (red thread) there are two threads of the main color (white thread) plus two extreme threads. In addition, the belt is often bordered by an edge. In this belt, 4 white, 4 red and again 4 white threads are added in a row on each side. This can be seen in the photo.
Each longitudinal bar of the reed has a hole for the thread. Thread from the middle to the edge, keeping in mind that one slit (and hole) is for one thread only.
So, thread 55 threads into the reed for the main pattern, alternating one red thread of the pattern with two white ones - the base, and 12 each - along the edges, for a decorative edge.
Tie the bundles of threads at the ends into knots and pull the belt blank, securing one end to a solid base (for example, on the wall) and tying the other (working) to the belt. Weave several rows to secure the threads.
First, lower the reed down - they will be divided into two streams - even and odd threads, a shed will form, and lay the weft thread (white ball) between the planes of the threads. Most often, the color of the weft is matched to the color of the main threads, and, accordingly, the extreme threads in the edge should also be of the same white color.
Raise the reed up - the streams of threads will intertwine.
"Knock" them with your palm (or better with a wooden ruler) to the beginning of weaving and tighten the weft thread so that the loop disappears. Pass the weft thread again between the layers of threads.
Change the position of the reed (down) and again "knock" the weave. Make several of these rows, weaving 5-6 cm of a "chess", fixing pattern. The denser the padding, the clearer the pattern will be; with a weak padding, the pattern will stretch along the base.
Start weaving according to the above pattern, guided by the following symbols: those threads that need to be picked up are marked with checkmarks; omit - with strokes; the rest - edge threads, remain in place.
The photo shows how the penultimate thread rises (the cell marked with a checkmark) - from the lower layer to the upper one when selecting the pattern of the 13th row. When weaving, remember that now the patterned threads are between every two warp threads. And if there is no red thread between the white threads, then it is already considered to be lying below.
Next, lay the weft thread between the layers of threads sorted according to the pattern. The concept of "martial belt" comes just from the fact that the pattern needs to be chosen.
Change the position of the reed by creating a weave of threads.
Continue weaving according to the pattern, maintaining the same density of weaving, carefully monitor the edges of the belt - they like to "worry" and do not allow the threads to sag from the wrong side. Sometimes the patterned threads will even have to be tightened, as they are used less when weaving.
The thickness of the belt depends on how thick the thread you choose. The thicker it is, the thicker and wider the belt will be. You can combine threads of different textures and thicknesses, using two threads of the desired color, if desired, instead of one thick one. Just remember: the patterned threads should be at least as thick as the main threads, and thicker is better. Thin threads will not "merge" into a pattern.
It is a little more difficult to work with woolen threads - they "twist" in the process of work, but this disadvantage is compensated by the fact that on the finished product, compared to others - from threads with cotton and viscose - the pattern is more voluminous and textured.
Another way to fill the reed can be found in the article
What do you need to weave at home?
In addition to a great desire - only the necessary devices that have not changed since ancient times.
On the Internet you can find a lot of very good workshops on weaving on boards, but in the MK on weaving on a reed or desktop loom, there are very few.
Here I will show you what a berdyshka is, what they are and how they differ, and I will also share links to available MK, which I learned to weave myself.
So, berd. Wikipedia reports that Berdo is "A device for hand weaving, a kind of comb. It has been known since ancient times. It can be used to create a narrow woven strip. A belt, a narrow towel, tablecloths, etc." The traditional berdo looks like this:
This is an ordinary single-row reed, i.e. we see holes in it in the middle of each plank. The threads are threaded both into the holes themselves and into the slots between the slats.
There are two more rows (holes in two rows, two for each bar one above the other) and three rows. I have a small reed that is three-row, although I have not yet mastered this technique. It looks like this :t
To weave belts, braid, ochelya, etc. on a reed. can be done in three ways:
dressing in a pattern
(examples can be found in my article "Weaving" posted earlier), when the threads are threaded in a certain color order, and the pattern is formed by their interlacing;
2 to 1 - when background and pattern threads are threaded according to the principle for 1 pattern thread - 2 background threads. The pattern is formed by half a day or lowering of patterned threads. Used for geometric ornaments;
scolding 1 to 1, used for weaving texts (for example, prayer belts)
Weaving can also be a mortgage, i.e. when the warp threads are of the same color and thin enough, and the weft threads, on the contrary, are dense, it is the weft that forms the pattern.
This is not a complete list of the possibilities of the berdechka.
Birdo can be bought, or you can make it yourself. A selection of master classes on self-made reeds in my livejournal - http://jenny-jan.livejournal.com/
In addition to the reed, you also need at least a shuttle and a knife. It is difficult to replace the shuttle with anything: a thread is wound around it, which will then make ducks.
I have this one (ordered at the Fair of Masters):
but can take many different forms:
The second necessary detail is a nail knife. It also serves to set the threads of the pattern (that's why it is sometimes called a picker), it nails the weft threads to the previous row, forming a dense canvas.
You can also order, or you can use a regular ruler. On the forums, I came across the opinion that the rulers often break. I broke only once (and I have been weaving for 2 years). The main condition is that the ruler should be heavy enough and not metal (light and uncomfortable in the hand).
Table weaving looms make life easier for us: they are compact, convenient and do not put such strain on the back. There are different ones: with a reed, with shafts. You can weave both on the obsny reed, and with your own special techniques. Here I refer Tatyana Suris to the Fair of Masters - her course for beginners on the weaving loom is the most intelligible and understandable thing that I came across. I would add that this is the only online course of its kind.
The machines look like this:
reed. It is convenient because if you remove the reed, you can safely weave on planks
and two-shaft (shafts - two planks with steel sticks, similar to a reed machine)
They are very comfortable to wear.
My review does not claim to be complete and original)))))
All photos are taken from the Internet.
Thank you for your attention!
The history of this publication is not simple. It should have happened that our whole family went on vacation in the summer of 2017, so that we went on an excursion to the Stary Oskol House of Crafts, so that the guide showed the reed in action, so that she agreed to provide us with a set for hand weaving.
And it all happened! We are happy to share our experience weaving belts on a reed!
We first heard such a word in a museum. Birdo is such a large “comb” with which you can weave a belt or braid.
Where to buy bird
We immediately share the contacts of the online store where you can purchase both reeds and the necessary tools: the creative workshop "World of Traditions".
The composition of our "starter" kit for beginners weaving belts on a reed:
- reed for 39 threads (600 rubles);
- wooden needle (200 rubles), used for hand weaving on reeds, planks, thread, tape loom;
- tamping knife (150 rubles), necessary for tamping textiles.
All tools are made of natural wood, it is clear that with love. It's nice to just hold it in your hands. But we still invite you to try the kit in action!
Weaving belts on a reed: a step-by-step guide
To get acquainted with the new technology, a step-by-step plan was made. Nothing complicated, we act consistently.
Step 1. Learning to weave on a reed.
How to learn to weave on a reed? We go to YouTube with the request “Birdo weaving”, on the very first try we find an hour-long master class by the already familiar to us creative workshop “World of Traditions”. This film alone is enough to learn how to weave using reeds. Start watching from the 44th minute.
Step 2. Choosing a filling pattern.
A threading pattern is a scheme for "threading" threads into a reed, usually accompanied by a calculation of the number of threads needed for all colors (see picture on the right).
For the first belts, it is better to choose the most simple patterns to learn the correct weaving technique. Look at the title photo - our first belt is made of yarn of two colors: 6 white threads and 7 red threads. In the picture on the right, the pattern is more complicated.
Step 3. Buying yarn.
For a test, you can buy the simplest and cheapest yarn, it is quite suitable for the first crafts. Again, the palette is determined by the filling pattern: in order to understand what colors of threads are required, we look at the color scheme. For the selected blue-white-black belt, the pattern scheme is shown in the picture (to the right, above):
- 11 white - a
- 10 black - b
- 10 blue - in
- 6 blue - g
For such a filling pattern, threads of four colors are required: white, black, blue and blue.
Step 4. Weaving.
Let's get started.
We choose a time when others do not greatly interfere with the process. The first steps will require concentration to repeat the movements seen in the video tutorials. Note that very young children can easily upset the balance of a novice weaver.
There is nothing complicated in using the berdo. The key to success is patience and elementary perseverance. With simple patterns (the belt is not too wide) in our family, even a child of 7 years old can handle it!
Even beginners get quite a decent result.
By the way, the blue-white-black belt (the one that is wider) corresponds to the pattern of the filling pattern given as an example in the article.
Attention! Be careful! The process is dragging on! Now berdo goes with us even on trips to nature!
