How to adjust the thread tension in a sewing machine. How the upper thread tensioner works

If the thread tension is incorrect, check the machine according to the following procedure:

1. Check if the threading is correct.

• The bobbin thread is visible on the top of the material.
• The upper thread appears as a straight line on the top side of the fabric.

Bottom filling is incorrect.

The upper thread is tightened for correct refueling.

• The upper thread is visible from the underside of the material.
• The bobbin thread appears as a straight line on the bottom of the fabric.
• The stitches on the bottom of the fabric are loose or looped.

The top filling is incorrect.

Turn the tension dial to “4”, and then refer to Upper thread is tightened for correct threading.

2. Check that the needle matches the material.

The sewing machine needle should be selected according to the material and thickness of the thread being used.

If the needle and thread do not match the material, the thread tension cannot be adjusted properly and will cause the material to gather or skip stitches.

3. Select the desired settings on the tension control.

Turn the thread tension dial to the desired setting. The correct tension varies depending on the type of fabric and the threads used.

• Adjust the thread tension while trial sewing on a piece of the same fabric on which you will be sewing the project.
• If the threading of the upper thread and bobbin thread are not correct, the thread tension may not be adjusted correctly even by turning the tension dial. Check the top tension and then the bottom tension and then adjust the tension.

When the lower thread is visible from above.

(1) Bottom side (2) The bobbin thread is visible from above (3) Upper thread (4) Top side (5) Lower thread

Turn the tension control to a lower value (to the left). Relaxing tension.

When the upper thread is visible from below.

(1) Bottom side (2) Upper thread (3) Top side (4) Lower thread (5) Upper thread visible from below

Turn the tension adjuster to greater value(to the right). Increasing tension.

The method for adjusting the thread tension is explained in a manner that will allow you to gain sewing experience no matter what skill level you are at.

Modern multi-purpose overlockers offer a large number of stitches to choose from, but all of them will be used very rarely by you unless you know the basics of the machine and, more importantly, correctly set the thread tension of the loopers and needles.

Most of us have always been taught never to adjust the sewing machine ourselves, so it's understandable that we feel hesitant and unsure if we need to change three or four settings in the overlocker.

However, once you can identify the parts of an overlock stitch, you will find that with this knowledge it is much easier to know which overlock threads to adjust if the stitching looks unbalanced, and you will be able to successfully overlock any fabric.

Anatomy of Overlock Stitches

The 4-thread overlock stitch is made up of two needle threads and two looper threads. While it is not necessary to use colored threads in your overlock to see the constituent parts of a stitch, you could still use this technique and find it useful.
The picture on the left shows the top and bottom sides of the fabric with overlock stitching. On the top (which is turned up while sewing), you will see two rows of stitches forming parallel lines with respect to the edge of the fabric. They are made with needles. Loops of thread that run more or less horizontally are formed by the upper looper. On the underside of the fabric is the lower looper thread, which is attached with almost invisible needle stitches.
What looks like a row of straight stitching along the inside edge of the stitch is actually an example of the formation of hidden (invisible) loop tips.

Stitch length and cutting width

The length and width settings affect overlock stitches. Select these values ​​and then adjust the thread tension to suit them. For basic overlock work and finishing stitches, I choose a versatile length/width combination that will work on most fabrics with minimal adjustments.

As with a conventional sewing machine, a stitch length of 2.5 - 3 mm is good for most fabrics. Shorter or longer stitches may cause puckering or pulling.

The stitch width set on the overlock is actually the width of the cut line setting: the value set on the machine controls the distance from the trimming knife to the needles and in turn the amount of fabric that remains inside the overlock stitch. The largest cut width leaves most of the fabric inside the stitch. I rarely use narrow slice widths because The tension setting required for a balanced stitch is often so high that thread breakage is a problem. A narrow cut width can be used (but not always necessary) for rolled stitches and other specific stitches.

Thread tension adjustment for balanced stitches

The general consensus is that overlock tension is difficult to set correctly, but on newer machines the adjustment is fairly easy if you start with the correct overlock threading and proper cut width. My advice is to adjust the tension first by changing the integer values ​​on the tension dial, and then, if necessary, fine-tune by setting half values. Older machines will require more fiddling, but keeping a record of your adjustment settings across different fabrics will allow you to adjust tensions quickly and accurately (the shape shown above would be useful for saving your settings).

I have developed a quick and error-free method for adjusting the overlock thread tension. Start with a test piece of two layers of fabric and overlock one edge, trimming at least a narrow strip of fabric. Now evaluate each component of the stitch individually by following these instructions:

1. Start with the loop of the left needle. If the fabric is wrinkling along the stitch, loosen the needle thread tension by changing the values ​​one at a time until the wrinkle disappears. When it becomes obvious that there is no wrinkling, open the fabric, pulling well, and look at the seam. If you see a "ladder" of stitches in the stitch, increase the tension one step at a time. The left needle thread is the thread that connects the loops together, so it must be properly tensioned.
2. Next, set the right needle thread tension. It's quite simple - set the dial to the same value as the left needle thread dial, or one notch lower. You have already defined the difference between the thread tension settings of the left and right needles for the same fabric once, this difference will be used for all two-needle overlock stitches.
3. Finally, determine where the looper threads intertwine. They should be weaved exactly at the edge of the fabric, with the seam lying smoothly and flat between the stitches. If the loops protrude from the edge of the fabric, you need to increase the tension of the looper threads. If only one looper appears to be sticking out, increase the tension on that looper only. If the looper stitches are intertwined on one side of the fabric, the tension is probably too tight on that side. Loosen the tension in incremental changes until a weave of loops is formed at the edge of the fabric. You may need to decrease the tension on one side and increase the tension on the other side, in which case start by loosening the tension as much as possible.

If you set up your overlock in the order I recommend, you will have no problem overlocking any fabric that comes under the presser foot.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Take a close look at your overlock stitch to identify problems and relate them to your current settings (such as cut width). Most of the shortcomings can be eliminated with a slight turn of one or two adjusting dials.

Cloth cutting width too narrow

The buttonholes protrude from the edge of the fabric when too much of the fabric from the seam allowance is cut off.

Needle thread tension

Wrinkles: Loosen needle thread tension
"Ladder" on the spread along the seam line: increase the tension of the needle thread

Looper thread tension

Loops roll to one side: loosen the looper tension on that side. (In this case, the loops will move towards the upper side, so the tension in the upper looper should be reduced.)

Incorrect weaving of threads

Stitch unevenness at the edge of the fabric: check that each thread is correctly threaded into the tension disc, otherwise no amount of adjustment will help create a balanced stitch

Discussions: Commenting disabled.

Correctly setting the thread tension on the sewing machine is critical to getting even and neat stitching on both sides of the fabric. Despite the importance of this setting, even experienced seamstresses sometimes try not to touch the tension control on their sewing machines. Adjusting the thread tension may seem like a daunting task, but once you understand the basic principles of adjusting it, it is not too difficult on any of the models and brands of sewing machines.

Getting to know your own sewing machine

Locate the sewing machine thread guides. The thread guides are involved in the regulation of the thread tension and are metal loops through which the thread is passed from the spool to the needle. They prevent the thread from tangling and monitor the uniformity of the thread tension while sewing a stitch on the fabric.

Locate the thread tension adjuster with clamp discs. The thread tension regulator with clamping discs allows you to adjust the tension of the upper thread. The disks squeeze the thread passing between them, and the regulator itself controls the degree of pressure of the disks on the thread. The principle of operation of the regulator is quite simple: when the tension is set to a higher value (turning the regulator clockwise), the discs move closer together, increasing the pressure; when the tension is set to a lower value (turning the knob counterclockwise), the discs expand and relieve pressure on the thread.

• Older sewing machines may have only two tension discs controlled by a nut or screw. Newer sewing machines may have three tension dials with adjusters or setting buttons located on the front of the machine.
• Unless you have the latest sewing machine with automatic thread tension, using thicker threads without adjusting the tension dial will put more pressure on the upper thread, making it difficult to feed while sewing.

Find the shuttle mechanism. The flat hook spring allows you to adjust the tension of the lower thread coming from the bobbin. Your machine may or may not have a removable hook for the bobbin under the needle plate (when you simply insert the bobbin into the hook). The bobbin thread pressure generated by the bobbin is adjusted by a small screw at the base of the spring.

• With a removable shuttle, the spring and tension adjusting screw are easiest to find. If the machine does not have a removable shuttle, it will be somewhat more difficult to find a spring and a screw, but rest assured, they are definitely there.
• In any case, to adjust the bobbin thread tension, you will need to take a small screwdriver and turn the adjusting screw clockwise (to increase the tension) or counterclockwise (to decrease the tension). Turn the screw just a little each time (no more than a quarter of a turn at a time) and sew a test stitch.

Understand how thread tension works in a sewing machine. The correct tension setting will create equal pressure on the top and bobbin threads while sewing. In other words, the stitches on the front and back sides of the stitch will look the same. In order for the stitching you are sewing to look neat, you must make the correct adjustment of the tension of the upper and lower threads. If the stitching at the top or bottom is uneven, the top or bobbin thread tension on the sewing machine is not set correctly.

• Most household sewing machines work on the lockstitch principle. This means that the upper and lower threads are "intertwined" when sewing. If this weave does not work correctly, then you have a problem with the tension setting.
• Troubleshooting Thread Tension
  

  Run a test line. Take a small piece of fabric and lay a couple of lines on it. Examine the lines from the front and from reverse side, if necessary, taking a magnifying glass for this.

  • Remember that the stitches should be even on both sides of the fabric. If the thread in the stitches is so tight that it pulls the fabric, or if it is so loose that the stitches stick out of the fabric, you may need to adjust the thread tension.
  • If the test stitch looks perfect and your sewing machine sews perfectly, don't touch the thread tension setting!
• 
  

  Find the problem with the line. So, you already have one or two test lines. In an ideal stitch, the weave of the upper and lower threads will be hidden between the two layers of sewn fabric, and the stitches will not wrinkle the fabric and form loose loops on either the top or bottom side.

  • The tension of the threads in the line can be easily imagined as a game of tug of war. The upper thread runs on one side of the fabric, and the lower thread on the other, each of which has its own tension. If the thread tension is the same, the stitching will be even and neat. If one of the threads is too tight, it will pull the interlacing points with the thread of the opposite side to its side, and they will become visible.
  • If bobbin thread is visible on the upper side of the stitching, the upper thread tension is set too high. If the upper thread is visible from the underside of the stitching, the thread tension is too loose.
• 
  

  Check your sewing machine. In addition to thread tension, there are many other causes that can also cause stitching problems. Be sure to check these possible reasons before adjusting the tension.

  • Incorrect refueling of the machine. Is the thread passed through all thread guides? Does it roll off the spool well or does it get stuck? Is the bobbin correctly inserted into the hook?
  • Machine clogging. Pieces of thread may become caught in the tension discs, the shuttle, and the feed mechanism. This may interfere with the normal operation of the sewing machine. Check all these places to make sure they are not clogged.
  • Damage to machine parts. Bent needles and bobbins, as well as nicks and damaged areas in the eye of the needle, thread guides, tension discs, presser foot, feed mechanism, hook and hook can cause problems. Carefully inspect the sewing machine, be aware that even the slightest damage can lead to thread tension problems.
• 
  

  Pay attention to the needles, threads and fabrics used. Using upper and lower threads of different thicknesses may require different tension settings. A needle that is too thick or too thin for the thread being used can also cause stitching problems. Shortening the stitch length to less than 1.5 mm when sewing thin fabrics may cause the fabric to trap under the needle plate. All these minor problems can prevent the project you have planned from running smoothly, so try to think through everything carefully before setting up the sewing machine for further work.

  • Polyester thread can be considered versatile and is well suited for most sewing tasks. Woolen threads are quite thick, and when using them on a sewing machine, you will need to adjust the thread tension.
  • Standard weight fabrics include cotton, linen and polyester. If you are going to sew heavy or light weight fabrics, you will also need to adjust the thread tension to get even stitches.
  • Sewing machine needles come in a variety of sizes and uses. Thicker needles are designed for sewing from denim, as they will not break, and thin needles when laying a line will not damage thin delicate fabric. When buying sewing needles in a store, you can get advice from the seller about which needle is best for the fabric you are using.
  • Thread tension adjustment

    Locate the upper thread tension knob. Its location on different sewing machines may vary, and if you are not sure where exactly the upper thread tension control is located, refer to the manual for the sewing machine. If you do not have a user manual, then you should pay attention to the dial with numbers, which is not responsible for choosing the type or length of stitches on the sewing machine.

  • 
    

    Correct the upper thread tension if too loose. To increase the tension of the upper thread, the tension regulator must be turned in the direction of increasing numerical marks on it. Try turning it half a division or a whole number, and then test the resulting stitch on an unnecessary piece of fabric. Continue adjusting the tension until the upper thread no longer shows through on the underside of the stitch.

  • 
    

    Correct the upper thread tension is too tight. To reduce the upper thread tension that is too high, turn the tension dial in the direction of decreasing numerical marks on it. Try turning it half a division or a whole number, and then test the resulting stitch on an unnecessary piece of fabric. Continue adjusting the tension until the bobbin thread no longer shows through on the top side of the stitching.

    • If you are unable to fully adjust the stitching by correcting the upper thread tension, proceed to adjusting the bobbin thread tension.
  • 
    

    Correct the bobbin thread tension. You should always adjust the upper thread first, unless you are using very thick or very thin threads. If, after adjusting the upper thread tension, you want to make changes to the bobbin thread tension settings, find the location of the hook (if the machine does not have a hook hook) or the hook itself.

    • The easiest way to check the bobbin thread tension with a detachable hook is to hang it from the end of the thread coming from the bobbin. If the hook hangs but the bobbin does not spin, the tension is too high and needs to be loosened. If the bobbin spins easily, the tension is too loose and needs to be increased. With the correct tension, when you hang the hook by the thread, it will only go down a few centimeters. When this happens, the bobbin thread tension settings can be considered ideal.
    • Take a small screwdriver and turn the adjusting screw a quarter of a turn. To increase the tension, turn it clockwise, and to decrease it, turn it counterclockwise. Repeat the test with the hook hanging by the thread. Continue adjusting the tension until the shuttle only drops a few inches on the thread.
    • The bobbin thread tension on a machine without a shuttle hook is adjusted in the same way, using a small screwdriver and turning the adjusting screw a quarter of a turn, then sewing a test stitch. As always, turning clockwise increases the tension, and turning counterclockwise loosens it.
  • 
    

    Sew test stitches until you get the best result. Continue adjusting the sewing machine and sewing test stitches until you have a straight stitch on both sides of the fabric. When you're happy with the result, finish setting up the machine and get to work on your project!

  • When you start sewing, be sure to pull the ends of the upper and lower threads back away from the needle, otherwise the threads may become tangled. This is a fairly common beginner seamstress mistake.
  • When checking the thread tension by sewing a trial stitch, use different colors upper and lower threads. At the same time, both of them should contrast with the color of the fabric. This will make it easier for you to notice problems and make the necessary adjustments to your settings. Just don't forget to take the threads later right color when you start work.
  • It's a good idea to write down the thread tension settings you've used on specific projects. Just get yourself a notebook and write down the settings for specific types of fabrics, threads and needles in it. Also indicate their brand, type and size. This will make it easier for you to set up your sewing machine for different projects in the future.
  • Be sure to adjust the upper thread tension first. In 90% of cases, the problem lies precisely in the tension of the upper thread, which needs to be adjusted.

Work order:

1. Remove the top cover.
2. Remove the regulator from the machine.
3. Disassemble.
4. Restore spring.
5. Collect everything.
6. Correctly install in the car.
7. Install the top cover.

In photo 1, the front cover is removed.

Photo 1.

Disassembly:

1. We loosen the screw by 3-4 turns and pull out the upper thread regulator. Photo 2.
2. Inside, we see a wire spring - we pull it out.
3. We take out the bracket of the "tensioner" of the upper thread.
4. We take out the lifting handle - the stem of the foot. Photo 3.
5. Lubricate it oil I - 18 A (spindle).
6. We put everything in place except the upper thread regulator.

Lubricate, with oil, the axis of the lifting lever, the stem of the foot. Without disassembly, do not crawl to lubricate.

Photo 2

In photo 3, a screw is shown that needs to be loosened by 3 - 4 half-turns so that you can pull out the axis, lever, lift, rod - paws.

Photo 3.

On photo 4, disassembled regulator, upper thread.

Disassembled, it consists of:

1. Screw.
2. Conical spring.
3. Washer with jumper.
4. Plate.
5. Plate.
6. Rod - pusher.
7. Threaded axle.
8. Groove for a conical spring.
9. Seat for compensating spring.
10. compensation spring.

Photo 4.

On photo 5, compensation spring, dressed on the axis, the upper thread regulator.

Photo 5.

Assembly and immediate adjustment.

1. On the curly axle, put on a compensation spring. Straighten one new coil of the compensation spring, and bend a ring out of it, instead of a ball, and a thread guide. As shown in Photo 5.
2. The tension of the compensating spring is free. The spring touches, far ledge, from the thread guide, the upper thread. Photo 7.
3. Screw on the base, tighten. Photo 7.

In photo 6, the first bend, from the bottom of the spring is not right. If we take the case of the base, for the dial, then the compensation spring costs 15 minutes. The axis must be rotated counterclockwise for 15 minutes. And in this position, clamp the screw on the base. It should be like in photo 7.

Photo 6.

Correct position, photo 7.

Photo 7.

On photo 8. Assembled adjuster, for alignment, bent axle.

1. We dress the plates, with the convex part to each other.
2. On plates, we put on a squeezing washer, with a curved jumper, outward.
3. On the squeezing washer, we put on a spring with a large diameter, and on the narrow part of the spring, we wind the pressure nut.

If the split part of the curly axis is compressed, then in order to align it and not break the axis, we do this: We put it on the axis - we screw the nut upside down, and open the slot of the axis with a screwdriver sting (if the axis is bent).

1. If it is slightly bent, the nut, when turned out, will even out this bend.

Install - Tension regulator, upper thread in place, under it is a spring, three turns. We press the regulator into the spring, so that the tide on the sleeve body is flush with the lowered part of the base. The distance from the top of the thread of the guide bracket to the bottom of the curved part of the spring is 19 - 20 mm.

1. Check the bend of the spring. We press the ball of the spring, and wind the spring under the thread of the guide bracket.

If the front bend, the compensation spring, enters under the thread guide bracket, without touching, then everything is fine. If the spring touches the bracket, braking will occur, and this is a break in the upper thread. You need to take round pliers and bend the spring.

When inserting the assembled upper thread regulator into the machine body, it is necessary to raise the presser foot shaft lifting handle by 1/3, otherwise the following will happen when sewing: When switching from thin to thick, the plates will spontaneously open. And the upper thread, on the thickening, loops from below.

On photo 9, the assembled regulator is installed in the machine.

How many craftswomen dream of an industrial sewing machine!

After all, what a beauty! You can sew thick, heavy, thin, dense - underline the necessary - fabrics and materials.

From the numerous comments in the discussion of industrial, and not only industrial, sewing machines, I realized that many of those who dream and, nevertheless, buy industrial never sewed on such machines! That is, they dream of washing in the depths of their souls, comparing it with an ordinary household household machine. I have to disappoint you a little - it's not quite the same thing. Rather, they are similar, but not quite.

But! Despite all the obstacles - there is no place, no money, or, on the contrary, you received a machine as a gift ... You have an industrial sewing machine! Hooray! Comrades! I'll make it clear right away that I'm talking about any typewriter with a vertical shuttle. That is, we have both a bobbin and a bobbin case.

The mechanic came, adjusted the machine, set it up, tweaked it, explained it and... left :)

And you were left alone with the machine and a multi-volume technical description for it, often in Chinese or in another incomprehensible language. Well, the language is incomprehensible. Would understand. But even after all, the terms are incomprehensible. Again - there is a saving Internet. But while there you get to the bottom of the truth, you will curse everything in the world.

So! The course of a young fighter or a few rules of the queen craftswoman.

Before starting, I’ll clarify again: we can figure it out on our own in the settings under two mandatory conditions.

Firstly, the mechanic had adjusted the machine before that and everything was fine!

Secondly, nothing in the machine fell off with a ringing and roar and the needles did not break!

It is important! If something extraordinary happened, it’s better not to go in yourself, but to call a specialist (husband, neighbor, at worst, a mechanic)

If everything is in order and the machine is "naughty" we begin to understand.

The first rule of the craftswoman queen. If the machine suddenly stops making a quality stitch - it winds, confuses the traces, there are shreds of threads from below, threads stick out from above too - again, methodically, carefully and accurately check the top and bottom threads.

Attention! For safety reasons, the TB machine must be refueled with the engine turned off!

Threading the top thread.

General form our machine.

From the spool, the thread passes through the upper guides

And professional cunning thread can be threaded into the guide plate in any way - this is just one of the options for additional thread tension or to prevent thread twisting; try playing around with different threading options.

The top thread has been threaded.

Now threading the lower thread.

And a professional trick about winding thread on a bobbin if you wind the thread idle, remove the thread from the needle (otherwise the thread will get tangled in the shuttle mechanism and you will be tormented to get it out) and raise the foot (otherwise the thread will be erased faster than necessary) feed rail teeth).

Another one professional trick.

Pay attention to the bobbin case in my typewriter.

A sheet of office paper or a piece of non-woven napkin for the kitchen, as the mechanic said "for softer or tighter sliding of the bobbin in the cap". It definitely won't get worse!

Direction of rotation of the bobbin in the bobbin case.

professional trickin fact, it doesn’t matter where the bobbin rotates in the cap, as one mechanic told me. Try it - it won't get worse, but it can get better.

We insert the bobbin into the cap and thread it into the shuttle mechanism.

Attention, again!Insert the bobbin case only when the thread take-up is raised to its highest position!

We check whether we have inserted the bobbin with the cap well.

How to check?

Making one full turn flywheel.

At the same time, the machine will make a cycle of one stitch and pull us to the surface bottom thread.

Attention again! If the bobbin case is not fully inserted, that is, when you inserted it into the hook mechanism there was no click, then the cap with the bobbin will fall out with a roar or the thread will not come out.

In this case, we start over.

Thread take-up lever in the upper position, cap in hand and go! Here is a small lyrical technical digression.

In some machines, the cap is inserted better (or you are used to it) if hold the lever or latch loop(white arrow).

In some machines (and mine was one of them), it’s better to simply hold the cap and insert it into the shuttle mechanism without any fuss - until you hear a clearly audible click.

professional trick pay attention to how and where the thread from the bobbin is directed (arrow).

When threading the bobbin cap, the thread always lies freely and points upwards.

Again, we check whether we have inserted the bobbin with the cap well.

The machine sews, but continues to wind.

But we forgot one small detail. We bought new threads and decided, nevertheless, to sew a new thing from a thick, heavy, thin, dense - underline the necessary - fabric and material.

Second Rule of the Craftswoman Queen.

If the machine does not sew well with new threads, on a new fabric, it winds We begin to independently adjust the quality of the line.

And for this we need to fearlessly, that is, quite consciously, tighten two screws.

And turning these screws is not only possible, but necessary!

Let's take a closer look at our machine. Here they are - two magic screws.

Upper thread tension regulator.

red arrow - adjusting screw.

green arrow - plates that hold the thread.

Tighten the screw plates

Lower thread tension regulator.

In a circle - adjusting screw.

Arrow - a pressure plate that regulates the tension of the thread depending on the force of the screw.

Tighten the screw pressure plate tightly clamp the thread, unscrew it - weaker.

This is how we check the pressing force of the pressure plate thread.

Turned the screw pulled the thread(in the direction of the arrow) - checked how tighter or weaker it goes.

Twisted - stitched - looked - twisted - stitched - looked and so on until the complete victory over the miracle of technology - an industrial sewing machine.

And so on until the line is of high quality and beautiful.

By the way, another little professional trick. Pulling out the threads at the end of the stitch, up to stop raise the foot with a knee lifter! Do not try to pull out the threads by force, and especially the top one, if you are too lazy to lift it - help with your hand(white arrow).

The fact is that raised knee lifter\u003d raised foot - you completely release the thread from the "hugs" plates in the upper thread regulator.

If the machine is good, new, tuned, and your skill is growing every day, then the adjustment will take you from 5 to 20 minutes.

By the way, all these tricks work great when taming the setting of a household sewing machine with a vertical shuttle.